Central Sarawak Uncovered: Exploring the Charms of Maludam, Ulu Sarikei, Sibu, Dalat and Mukah

Travellers to Sarawak may not consider visiting Central Sarawak. After all, the well-beaten path of travel is Kuching and Miri in the north. Kuching being the capital city. Miri is the gateway to two UNESCO World Heritage Sites of Sarawak. Mulu and Niah National Park.

But when travellers do, a different Sarawak’s experiences greet the intrepid ones. Here, the coastal regions of Maludam, Dalat and Mukah present an old world charm of markets and everyday life. In between, inland Ulu Sarikei and Sibu add to your places of discovery. And the regions have their unique cuisines to pique your interest and appetite.

What you will get is:
a unique blend of culture, nature, and authentic experiences offered by these locations.
by visiting these off-the-beaten-path destinations supports local communities and sustainable tourism.

First…

Where Are Maludam, Ulu Sarikei, Sibu, Dalat and Mukah on the map?

Travel and Sightseeing: Immersive Journeys Through Central Sarawak

Starting in Kuching, you travel northward along the Sarawak coastal way. You will pass through remote landscapes and cross two major Borneo rivers. They are the Batang (river) Lupar and Batang Sadong. The Batang Lupar crossing for now is via a car ferry. It is an interesting 15-min long crossing. At certain times of the day, seagulls would gather in the stern of the ferry. They would take advantage of the ferry’s wake to swoop down on fish caught in it. But once completed, the 4.8-km Batang Lupar bridge will offer a new travel experience.

In Maludam, you will travel the wetlands of the national park of the same name in a boat to spot wildlife. If fortunate, you will spot the elusive red-banded langur. This primate is now in the IUCN red list of threatened species. But, the proboscis monkeys are a more assured sighting.

Making your way Inland

From Maludam, you now make your way inland to an Iban longhouse, Rumah Sibar in Ulu Sarikei. Pepper farms, hill padi fields and rubber plantations scroll by along the undulating windy road off the Pan Borneo Highway. The vista of the tropical landscape riding the crest of hills makes for a pleasant experience. A hike to a nearby waterfall highlights the rainforest experience you wish for.

As you make your way up to Sibu, 80-km north of the Pan Borneo Highway, houses of early Chinese settlers dot the landscape. In Sibu, take a stroll along the Sibu Heritage Trail. It involves a visit to the 1,200-stalls Sibu market and the charming enclave of old Sibu. Soak in the sights and smells of pastries baking in earthen ovens. Take priceless photos in the alleyways with small businesses. Or have fun posing with the street art murals of local characters. A sunset walk along the Rajang Esplanade enchants you while absorbing the activities along the Rejang river. Still along the river bank, stands a 7-storey Pagoda. The top offers a panoramic view of Sibu’s waterfront life.

———————————————————————————————————————————————

Check out our 5-Day Sarawak Coastal Explorer Experience that covers Maludam, Ulu Sarikei, Sibu, Dalat and Mukah

———————————————————————————————————————————————-

Rounding up your Central Sarawak route

And the travel gets more interesting.

From Sibu, cruise along the meandering Igan river to Dalat in a speedboat. Catch the sights of Iban longhouses through your fast moving boat. Wave back at the local habitants busy with their daily life along the river bank.

The Sg Kut canal connects Igan river to Oya river where Dalat is. Once there, explore the jerunei (burial pole) Garden and Church by the River. All told, this is about 100-km of riverine travel. At times, the ride can be jarring as your speed boat bounces and skims over rough patches of water.

Your final journey will be by car from Dalat to Mukah, a distance of 42 km. More ruralscape unfolds before you. You are now in the Melanau heartland of Sarawak. In Mukah, river travel takes you to visit sago processing huts and sago plantations. A common sight along the river is workers towing trains of sago logs to factories for processing.

Savouring Local Flavours and Exploring Vibrant Markets

Start with a stop at a fishing market near Maludam to capture the sights of the day’s fresh catches. In Maludam village, indulge in traditional Malay culinary experiences. These include a baking class where you can learn to prepare local delicacies. When in season, witness jellyfish and dried fish processing during your village walkabout. How do you like eating jellyfish marinated in shrimp paste sauce? An essential part of the local cuisine experience.

Your Iban host at Rumah (longhouse) Sibar Homestay in Ulu Sarikei will serve you ayam pansuh (chicken in bamboo) and organic rice. The hospitality continues with a merriment of dance and tuak (rice wine). The latter being optional. 🙂

In Sibu, a culinary adventure awaits with a hawker lunch featuring local favorites. Such as kampua noodles and kongpia mince meat buns. These are the town’s predominantly Foochow population breakfast staple. The Sibu Central Market, 1,200-stall strong, showcases a stunning array of exotic fruits and jungle produce. You will find Iban women selling handicraft items. An interesting sight here is seeing live poultry wrapped up in tubes fashioned from newspapers. Stroll through the old part of Sibu Town to savour the aroma of pastries from traditional earthen ovens.

On the way to Mukah, the journey along the Igan River offers glimpses of Melanau culture. Savour Melanau specialties in an authentic village setting. Such as umai (raw fish salad) and tebaloi (sago crackers), which are staples in this region. Add ‘linut‘ into your gastronomic adventure – a starchy gooey sago-based local delicacy eaten with a spicy and pungent sauce. Now that’s an adventure for the taste bud!

Everyday Life: A Glimpse into Sarawak’s Traditions

Sarawak has 47 ethnic groups. This region offers you experiences with four of them:

• Coastal Malays*
• Ibans
• Chinese
• Melanaus

* They speak a variation of their Sarawak Malay language.

The daily rhythms of Sarawak’s vibrant communities are seen where tradition and simplicity shape everyday life.

In this Malay fishing village of Kampung Hilir Maludam, wake up to the crows of village roosters. Here, the kampung life centers around fishing and seasonal activities like jellyfish processing.

At Rumah Sibar, Ulu Sarikei, observe Iban villagers as they set out for their farms or dry harvested peppers in the morning sun. You may even try your hand tapping rubber yourself.

In Sibu, experience the lively atmosphere of the Sibu Central Market. There is no truer reflection of a community than in the local market. Where Chinese housewives transact with Iban women for fruits and jungle produce. A stroll through Old Sibu Town showcases the bustling energy of small alleyway businesses. Catch the waft of baking pastries and cookies in the air. Thus giving you a window into the industrious spirit of the town’s residents.

Before reaching Dalat, make a stop at the peaceful village life of the Melanau people of Sg.Kut.

The Melanau Heartland

In Mukah, travel through serene water villages where life moves at a gentle pace. So does the train of floating sago logs being pulled to the processing factory in the area. Over in one of the many huts, lies a vibrant cottage industry. Here Melanau women go about their daily chore roasting sago pellets on a large open top griddle. This local delicacy is a favourite accompaniment with umai (raw fish) and si’et (sago worms).

Yet there is nothing quiet at the bustling riverfront fish market. The Melanau people’s love for umai (raw fish) has made filleting and slicing small fish into an art form. On a daily basis, local ‘sashimi cooks’ work through hundreds of such fish to satisfy local demand.

From one art form to another to appreciate. The Melanau traditional crafts are known for their simplicity, elegance and functionality. An innovative use of their food ‘linut‘ has turned ‘linut batik‘ into textile design. Pre-arranged visits to such private collections and displays are available. At least till the Lamin Dana Handicraft Center comes back ‘online’ after renovation. (status as of 27 Jan, 2025)

How to Travel to Maludam, Ulu Sarikei, Sibu, Dalat and Mukah

The journey is an adventure especially when the distance covers 450-km thereabouts. This includes the river journey. Interact with this map to get an impression of the journey. We have included Kuching since the capital is the gateway for most international travellers.

Now, the caveat here is to give you a high-level view of how the Central Sarawak journey is done.

This is how we break up the travel mode. From Kuching to Maludam to Ulu Sarikei to Sibu, it will be by road. There will be boat trips in Maludam. You travel to Mukah from Sibu in a combination of river and land transport. The speedboat trip from Sibu to Dalat will take you through the Kut canal. This is the only man-made canal of Sarawak. Travelling close to the dwellings on both banks of the canal is a highlight. Once you arrive in Dalat, a road trip will take you to the coastal town of Mukah.

From the modern Mukah airport, you can fly off to Kuching, Kota Kinabalu or Miri. The airport can also be your launch pad to the Gunung Mulu World Heritage site.

————-————————————————————————————————–
For a complete Borneo Overland experience that includes the central region, check out the 19-day Epic Borneo Overland package.
————–————————————————————————————————–

Central Sarawak Interactive Map

What We Offer

The central region of Sarawak is an intrepid traveller’s paradise. For it combines a unique blend of Bornean natural beauty, rich culture and traditions.

It will require delicate planning if one chooses to do this programme themself. Furthermore, public transport isn’t seamless and then there is the language barrier. Where we at Paradesa Borneo come in, is giving you the convenience of logistics and ground arrangement. Furthermore, we have established a strong partnership with the respective communities.

Feel free to contact us here or Whatsapp us.