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Journey Through Sarawak’s Rajang Basin: Bakun Cultural, Nature and Adventure Experience| Part 4 of 4

Looking across Bakun Lake from Mebong Cove to a glorioius sunset
Solace and balmy breeze, wellness therapy

The Bakun region is the last part of our Rajang Basin journey. Starting from Tanjung Manis at the mouth of the Rajang River, day 7 takes us to Mebong Cove followed by a visit to the Sungai Asap longhouses the next day. This lakeside resort is a fine testament of how a man-made lake has realised its potential of community-based tourism. A Bakun lake adventure includes swimming, waterfall visits and kayaking. A homestay experience at the Sungai Asap longhouse resettlement is a must. Here the Kayan, Kenyah and Penan cultures reign supreme.

Bakun became famous after the completion of the second highest concrete face rock-filled Bakun dam in the world. The resulting lake area is about the size of Singapore.

Exploring Bakun Lake

Our hosts at Mebong Cove were incredibly friendly and welcoming. They shared poignant stories of the houses and old villages now submerged beneath the vast waters of Bakun Lake. They recounted how the journey that once took a full day upriver now takes a mere 30 minutes, a stark illustration of the dam’s transformative, if disruptive, impact on the landscape and way of life.

Day 7 was dedicated to exploring the immense Bakun Lake. We cruised the vast expanse of water on a tag float, a unique setup pulled by two small engine boats. Our day was filled with a sense of freedom and discovery. We explored a hidden waterfall, enjoyed kayaking and swimming, and took a refreshing break amidst the lush rainforest.

Visitors on a tag float moving towards a river tributary in Bakun Lake
Riding a tag float to explore waterfall in one of the tributaries of Bakun Lake

Taking a longboat to move upstream to catch ‘Empurau’ (Tor tambroides), the most expensive fish in Sarawak

Our hosts shared stories of epic upriver journeys that once took days, now made easier by the lake’s presence. In a moment of skill and local knowledge, our host demonstrated his fishing prowess, catching a small empurau fish with a throw net—a prized catch, as it is the most expensive freshwater fish in Sarawak. As the day came to a close, we witnessed a beautiful sunset over the lake. Surrounded by secondary forest and the vast, peaceful waters, with no other people in sight, Bakun Lake was a moment of true tranquility and natural beauty.

Visiting the Vibrant Culture of the Kayans, Kenyahs and Penans at Sg Asap, Bakun

Our final day began with an overland transfer to Sungai Asap, the resettlement area for communities displaced by the Bakun Dam. Here, we explored Uma Belor, reputedly the longest longhouse in Sarawak. This impressive structure became home to many indigenous groups, including the Kayan, Kenyah, and Penans. While the resettlement brought significant challenges, these resilient communities have worked tirelessly to preserve their unique cultural heritage.

A view of an arch decked out in Orang Ulu design and craft.
The intricate design of Orang Ulu craft welcomes visitors to their longhouse

We were treated to a vibrant cultural display by the local tribes, a powerful and fitting end to our immersive journey into Sarawak’s diverse cultures. After a final lunch in Uma Belor, we transferred to Bintulu, where we caught our flight back to Kuching. Our minds were brimming with memories and a newfound appreciation for the Rajang Basin. A basin that stretches along 350-km of the river.

The author posing seated with an elderly Orang Ulu woman with tattooed arms
The author with an Orang Ulu woman with arm tattoos.

Sarawak’s Rajang Basin Epilogue

This expedition has truly shown us the untapped potential of the Rajang. Despite the changes brought by development and extraction, the region still offers authentic experiences, vibrant cultures, and stunning natural beauty. It’s a place that deserves to be rediscovered—a “quick win” for Sarawak’s tourism product development. The history of the area is vibrant, and the forts, longhouses, and artifacts provide physical reminders of a colorful era that had not only conflict but also spectacular peacemaking. With the new road to Kapit and the opening up of new areas like Belaga, Bakun, and Sungai Asap, the Rajang can offer a new experience for visitors, combining remoteness and adventure with a diversity of culture. It is a region truly waiting to be rediscovered.

Customising Your Rajang Basin Itinerary

Your Rajang Basin exploration can be done in parts. Let us know in the form here.