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Cultural, Adventure & Cycling Tours in Borneo

Journey Through Sarawak’s Rajang Basin: Kapit and Punan Bah | Part 2 of 4

What’s in Kapit?

Kapit itself was a fascinating blend of old and new. We spent the day exploring the downtown area, located by the boat terminal and the river. The town still serves as a vital trading post for settlements further upriver, with a vibrant mix of shops and local life. The Teresang Market was a sensory overload—a bustling hub of fresh produce and local delicacies. Amidst the vibrant displays, however, we noticed subtle signs hinting at illegal wildlife hunting, a sobering reminder of the challenges facing the region’s unique biodiversity.

Riverine fish such as cat fish on display for sale at the Kapit Wet Market
Fresh Ikan Tapah among others for sale at the Kapit Wet Market.


Places Map Guide of the Rajang Basin Travel Log. Red pins denote places covered in 2 of 4

 

Our journey through history continued with a visit to Fort Sylvia, which is now home to the Tun Jugah Foundation. This impressive museum is dedicated to preserving and showcasing Iban culture, history, and traditions. The displays feature a rich collection of artifacts, intricate textiles like the renowned pua kumbu, and historical documents, including peace treaties between Iban’s warring factions during the Brooke era.

Fort Sylvia under a blue sky streaked with clouds.
The historic Fort Sylvia is now a cultural museum.

A local Chinese kopitiam owner shared a familiar story: all his children and grandchildren had moved to urban parts of Sarawak and beyond, yet he had no plans of leaving. He held onto his old way of life, a testament to the community’s resilience. He recalled a time when fleets of speedboats once raced up and down the river, acting as the lifeblood of trade and travel between Sibu and Kapit. Today, with the trunk road complete, the river primarily serves nearby villagers who still lack road access, as well as remaining logging and mining activities.

Longboats and an express boat berthed side by side at the Kapit Wharf.
Two common modes of transport for people living in the upper stretches of the Rajang Basin – Express boats and longboats.

Navigating the Pelagus Rapids Near Kapit (With Video)

This was where the adventure truly began to feel wild. We departed Kapit by express boat, anticipating the thrilling Pelagus Rapids. This journey along the Belaga River, a major tributary of the Rajang, was exhilarating. We sat on the roof of the express boat alongside chickens and various goods, a truly authentic experience that provided a unique vantage point.

Our guide recounted tales of “Semut operation” by the Allies during WWII, adding a layer of historical intrigue to the stunning scenery. We learned of a series of rapids that had been blasted away, where passengers once had to disembark and re-board boats, a testament to the river’s once untamed nature. This once-daily boat trip is now endangered as roadwork extends further into the interior—a shame, as the journey itself is an unforgettable experience.

Exploring Punan Bah’s Punan Cultural Heritage

After approximately four hours, we arrived at Punan Bah, a place steeped in Punan history. The Punans are an indigenous ethnic group of Borneo, historically nomadic forest dwellers, many of whom have now settled into villages. We learned the heartbreaking story of the old longhouse, which tragically burned down in less than 30 minutes.

Passengers got dropped off from express boat at the riverbank
Jumping off boat to land is part of a Rajang Basin adventure

The new Punan Bah, however, showed incredible resilience, with a burgeoning community tourism initiative complete with rooms and cooking facilities. We spoke with a local hero who is campaigning fiercely to protect the last patch of primary jungle from logging companies. 

Handcrafted poles stand watch in front of Punang Bah longhouse
The spiritual guardians of Punan Ba longhouse

Our visit included a boat trip to an impressive Kelirieng, an ancient burial pole now hidden and barely visible from the river among the overgrown foliage.

View of Kelirieng Burial pole perched high by the riverbank from a longboat
Kelirieng Burial Pole of the Punan

These sacred burial poles were once a major selling point for Sarawak tourism but are now largely forgotten artifacts in ruin. However, efforts are being made by the Sarawak Museum to systematically record and revive them, and there are plans to resurface many of the submerged burial poles following the Christianization of the Punan.

Customising Your Rajang Basin Itinerary

Your Rajang Basin exploration can be done in parts. Let us know in the form here.

Journey Through Sarawak’s Rajang Basin: Sekapan Panjang and Mebong Cove (Bakun Lake) | Part 3 of 4