Journey Through Sarawak’s Rajang Basin: Sekapan Panjang and Mebong Cove (Bakun Lake) | Part 3 of 4
Sekapan Panjang Longhouse
After a village breakfast, we continued our journey by express boat to Sekapan Panjang Village. The Sekapan is a small indigenous group found primarily along the Belaga River. They a sub-group of the Orang Ulu, a diverse group of ethnic people living in the head waters of Sarawak.
Their story unfolded before us, particularly their unique two-story longhouse design and a grand hall that treated us to a captivating cultural display. Sekapan Panjang was once known as Temenggong Matu Longhouse. The name changed with the demise of the last longhouse community leader. This is common practice of longhouse culture in Sarawak.
Who are the Sekapans?
This is the ancestral heartland of the Sekapan people, a little-known community numbering only about 1,000 today. They are a small Kajang sub-group in Belaga, Sarawak who can trace their roots back over 200 years. Their lives are rooted in farming, fishing and longhouse traditions. However, many of their youth now drift to cities, returning only for Gawai or Christmas.

Walking the wooden ruai, we heard how the Sekapan once commanded respect as warriors, holding the Kajang leadership title of Temenggong. Their culture links closely with Kejaman, Lahanan and Punan neighbors, yet Sekapan identity is distinct — preserved in dialect and customs. That said, Sekapans share a common practice in honouring their aristocrats. Burials was done in form of the towering ironwood burial poles, the kelirieng. A few weathered ones still stand around the Belaga region.
Christian hymns now drift from the SIB church, though elders remember the Gawai harvest festival that once echoed through these hills. Roads are slowly replacing riverboats… promising easier access.

After another morning immersed in the culture of Sekapan Panjang, we checked out and boarded a longboat for the journey to Belaga. We explored the town. Across the river, we caught glimpses of abandoned burial poles—relics of a past era, now overgrown and awaiting restoration.

From Belaga to Bakun
Following a simple lunch, we headed overland to Bakun, home of Sarawak’s most ambitious and controversial dam project. After clearing dam authority security, we took yet another boat to Mebong Cove, an island that was once a hilltop before the valley was flooded for the dam.

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